Reducing Cylinder Drag…and More
After reading the last post for the SoCiety of Remington Revolver Shooters I thought I would add the following tips that I've gotten off the wire and elsewhere. I've
modified my 1858's in the following manner.
- I took out the lever retaining screw and removed the cylinder pin. I then chucked it into a drill press (since I don't have a lathe) and took a saw blade and
cut groves every 1/8" about 1/16th" to 3/32nd" deep into it. I heard that this cuts down on BP fouling jamming the cylinder. Later I just went back and used a
triangular file on those cuts as someone else suggested.
- I then took my dremel tool out and beveled the cylinder pin edges at the end so that it would go smoother into the cylinder and into the frame. Marked out where
I wanted the bevel to begin on the outer diameter of the pin and on the face of the pin. Lets call it about 1/16th" at 45 degrees.
- Steel wooled the entire cylinder pin to smooth out any outstanding edges and reblued with instant blue.
- Stripped the hammer out of the gun and dremmeled the hammer real light because it just wouldn't stay in the safety notches.
- Polished the internals to remove any outstanding burrs. re oiled and put the thing back together.
Pistol seems to be smooth enough and since I did the cylinder pin modifactions before I shot it I can't say how well that works. I do know that I can get about 5 cylinders out of it before I have to take the cylinder out and wipe off the pin though. BTW I don't usually use crisco just powder and ball.